What We Do- Design

The services we provide for homeowners in the planning and construction phases of a job can seem overwhelming taken as a whole. In the next few blog posts I hope to break them into steps that will be easier to grasp.

You're ready for a Do It Yourself remodeling project but could use a little help getting started?

I can help guide you starting here.

Floor Plan

Design

Successful remodeling projects begin with good planning. Good design planning builds a solid foundation before the first load of lumber is delivered.

It is often difficult to envision the completed project. I can show you 3D renderings that can make it easier to see what the completed project might look like before you begin

Design planning can be as basic as project feasibility studies with sketches to as extensive as finished drawings and 3D renderings.

Drawings and 3D views help provide reality checks, accuracy and peace of mind before construction begins. This help ensures that your project will be on time, on budget and achieve the best possible result for you.

Overall 3d view

 During the design phase we will work together to determine your wants, needs and essentials to determine the final layout and ultimately choose the types, styles and colors of products used in your remodel. This planning and research will help you understand how your project will be constructed, what to expect during construction and most importantly at this point help you visualize the project before the remodeling even begins.

3d Kitchen Walk Through

With the preplanning, CAD generated floor plans and 3d walk through you can easily visualize and make changes before you even pick up a hammer, saving time and money would the hands on construction begins.   

Any Questions?

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Up next: Material Selection

Moving Stairs to a New Location

I answered this question a couple of years ago on RemodelQA and recently received an email with a few more questions, so I thought I would do a repost:

Q: I want to move my stairs down to the basement. How much room do I need?

There several dimensions of "space" to consider when deciding stair placement. To understand the space needed you have to think in 3D.


How much space will be determined to an extent by the measurement from the finished floor of the main floor to the finished basement floor. However there are a few other considerations.

One "headache" will be enough headroom. The opening to be cut into the main floor has to be long enough so that the minimum headroom in all parts of the stairway will not be less than 80" measured vertically from a sloped line connecting the tread nosing (the rounded front of the tread) or landing to the lowest part of your ceiling line in the basement.

Some times you can solve space problems by adding a landing and turning the stairs in a l-shape or an U shape, sometimes you're just eating up other space. Another space consideration is the width. Most codes call for a minimum clear width from finished wall to finished wall of 36". If they are only service stairs that will be fine. If the basement is going to be finished or you have to move furniture or appliances up and down, I would recommend 42" minimum. Remember to add to the clear width the thickness of wall framing and the finish material of the walls.

Your riser height will determined by the measurement from the finished floor of the main floor to the finished basement floor. Keep in mind that most codes determine that maximum riser height should be 73?4 inches. I like a rise of around 7" for a comfortable stairway when possible.

Tread depth will determine the overall length of the stairs from the riser of the bottom step to topmost riser. Code says that minimum depth of tread, where you step, is no less than 10". For service steps that may work, I try for a depth between 10 1/2" and 11" is more comfortable for many people.

A: A little more

Sorry, this is wordy because of the complex nature of stairs.

To determine the 2 dimensional space required, take the overall measurement from floor to floor as said above, for a straight run of stairs. Divide by 7" to get the number of risers you will need. It most likely won't be even, so adjust the number of risers up or down to get your number. Say the floor to floor number is 104 1/2". Divided by 7 you would get approx. 14 15/16 risers. Hard to do so 104 1/2"/ by 15 risers = approx a rise of 16 15/16". 14 rises would be approx. 7 7/16"

For 14 risers you would need 13 treads at 10" for approx.10'-10" in length or the 10 1/2" tread preferred for approx. 11' 4 1/2". Now remember overall stair length won't necessarily be the same length you have to have for the opening you will cut into the upper floor. That size may be a little shorter as long as you have the headroom mentioned above of at least 80"

Clear as mud? There are many factors to be determined to have the vision to understand how it will all come together before cutting into any floor joists.

Let me know if I can add anything...or clarify. You may need to have a professional be onsite to give you the best assessment.

Here is the original post from RemodelQA: http://www.remodelqa.com/other-remodels/636/i-want-to-move-my-stairs-down-to-the-basement-how-much-room-do-i-need

Interior Trim: 8 Must-Know Elements by Bud Dietrich, AIA

Interior Trim: 8 Must-Know Elements

Houzz- Kitchen Remodel, Bathroom Remodel and More »

Browse Lighting on Houzz- For Example:

Ceiling Fans · Ceiling Lighting · Chandeliers · Kitchen Lighting And Cabinet Lighting · Lamp Shades · Recessed Lighting · Table Lamps · Track Lighting ·

Community Service

•This past year members of the Remodelers Council of the Homebuilders Association of Greater Des Moines came together to  convert a half bath and closet into a fully accessible bathroom.

 The remodeled bathroom was needed to enable Harold and Bill to become a little more independent and safe in a barrier free shower.

  They are two of the World War II Vets who are living at a  Veteran’s Administration Medical Foster Home in Cambridge, Iowa, operated by Scott and Marilyn Olson.

  As Special Events Chairperson of the Remodelers Council I take pride that our Des Moines Remodelers Council members have committed time and resources to serving our community.  

Before Picture

WW II Vet Bill Raisch checking out the progress

After picture

         

Barry Elings talking with Jan O’Briant Medical Foster Home coordinator for the Des Moines area VA Hospital

Shannon Flickinger of Hammer Built installed grab bars and shower seat

More Than Father's Day

Dad with his kids, nephew and nieces

I am the son, grandson and nephew of painters. My dad worked for his dad growing up. Shortly after coming home from Korea, where he served in the Marine Corps he started his own painting business in 1952, one year before I was born.

Dad and me working on the Lake house

When I was 8 years old I was allowed to go to the job site with dad sweeping and cleaning. I eventually worked my way up to becoming the baseboard expert. I learned to sand, putty and wrap baseboards. Dad said when I could touch the top of the door casing without standing on a bucket I would graduate from baseboards. That was a day I longed for.

Painting a water tower

Dad had 3 passions; his family, his business and remodeling the homes we lived in. As a boy growing into adulthood it was the perfect combination leading to not only a career, but passion of construction. His passion gives me many happy memories related to my life in construction, the day he told my mom I was ready for my own hammer or Saturday mornings waiting anxiously as mom packed my lunch and dad finished breakfast so that we could get into the truck for the drive to work. What pride I felt sitting next to my dad holding firmly on to my lunch. My dad is no longer with us, but I still remember the first time he gave me a company truck and sent me out to paint a house exterior by myself.

Grandpa Elings

Dad taught by example and what he gave his 7 children was a legacy of hard work, resourcefulness, creativity and persistence.  He instilled in us pride of a job well done, to strive for perfection and craftsmanship. Cutting corners was not acceptable but continuing to learn and being open to new techniques was to be desired.

Grandpa Miller and Dad

Dad's other love; his grandchildren

Not so secret love; his ice cream

Five Ways Not To Write a Craigslist Ad Looking For Contractors

Have you ever read a Craigslist, or any other, ad looking for remodeling or repair help? Maybe you’ve actually posted such an ad? If we shopped for medical aid this way healthcare costs would be much lower, right?

"Date: 2011-05-10, 7:09AM
Reply to: Unskilled Labor
Need a 30x30 room plastered/drywalled and prime/ painted (2 coats)
We have all materials.
Couple days work, $100.00 (cash) for the job once finished
Please email your angies list verification page and a brief description of your company, also your bid for the job (if willing to do it less than $100).

* Location: USA
* it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests
* Compensation: $100.00"

1. Always offer to pay in cash. This way you give the impression to the prospective bidder you are willing to become an accomplice by potentially skirting any State or Federal obligations.

2. Always state in the ad exactly how much you expect to pay. The contractor will be immensely relieved that there will be no need to waste time writing a bid or calculating what overhead costs are needed to stay in business so that they may do jobs for you in the future. Best of all you might be contacted by someone who is willing to do it for less than offered. What could go wrong?

"Need someone with a small tractor to move about 100 yds. of dirt in tight areas, scrape new grass to form a firebreak and scrape a driveway. 1/2 to 3/4 day maximum. (Do not need someone to tell me it will take a full day or more, or to show me how to "milk" a job!)."

3. Always tell the potential “contractor” how long it will take to do the job. This will put the “contractor” more at ease when dealing with you; they will realize immediately that you know way more about their trade than they do. Taking the time to research the time it takes to perform a task on www.howlongdoesittake.com shows you won’t be just any pain in the rear customer.

4. Always request a bid for your project by describing the scope of work in your ad.  Who needs the aggravation of contractors tramping through your home?  How much can such things as site conditions or matching existing material matter? What if the contractor had some ideas to improve the end product or make it less costly? What a bother.

"….If this job is finished to my satisfaction I have many other jobs to do around my house."

5.  Always promise more work. What contractor worth their salt wouldn’t want to bid a job cheaper on the hazy promise of more work in the future?  We all know you can lose money on projects as long as you make up for it by the number of jobs you do.

To be clear the person writing these types of ads or email are most likely not looking for a real contractor, they are looking for someone likely unlicensed, uninsured and not knowing the real costs of doing business.

To be fair not all homeowners are searching for contractors with the same goal in mind. Maybe some have been misled by how-to television shows or websites that portray to know the “right” way to find a contractor. I’m not saying don’t use Craigslist or whatever else you use to find someone to work on your house I am saying there are better ways to go about finding someone to work on your biggest investment.

Spring Maintenance Checkup for your Home

The smell of spring is in the air, when even the newest of homeowners feel a familiar urge to move the furniture, scrub the windows and dust the woodwork, ritual offerings to the return of sunshine and warmer weather. Spring, besides being a harbinger of cleaning frenzy, should provide a reminder that the exterior of your home needs routine maintenance.

 

Follow this spring maintenance checklist to make sure your home is in the best condition possible for coming year:

1. Inspect exterior foundation.

·         Springtime and rain go together which can lead to water in your basement. Most water leakage can be traced to exterior conditions around the foundation.

·         Check for loose or leaky gutters. Improper drainage can lead to water in the basement or crawl space.

·         Make sure downspouts drain away from the foundation. Downspouts should discharge on sloping surfaces at least 10 feet from the foundation.

·         Clean leaves and debris from gutters and downspouts.

·         Reattach gutters that have pulled away from the house.

·         Check the ground around exterior foundation, Soil should slope away from the home, making sure there are no low spots where water can pool against the home. A good slope to aim for when grading ground extending from the foundation is 6 inches for the first 10 feet.

·         Make sure your sump pump is working properly.

·         In areas where flooded basements are common, a battery backup system for the sump pump ensures that the system will work when the power goes out.

·         Make sure the water from the sump pump discharges far enough away from the foundation.

·         Check your landscaping. Cut back and trim all vegetation and overgrown bushes close to your house or garage. Not only will trees and bushes to close to the foundation cause water to enter your home, limbs and shrubs can provide a pathway for carpenter ants and other insects, scrape the paint from your siding and ultimately cause excess moisture to rot your exterior wood surfaces.

2. Inspect your home's exterior.

·         Check siding, window trim, soffit and other painted surfaces for rot, loose, peeling or flaking paint. Repair, prime and paint as needed. Failing paint on exterior wood surfaces leads to more extensive damage, find and repair while it is still small

·         Inspect the caulking around doors, windows, corner boards, any place there is a joint where two or more different materials meet. Replace caulk if deteriorating or missing. Caulking these joints properly prevents unwanted water intrusion, AC/Heat loss, drafts and bugs from entering your home.

·         Caulking the bottom joint of lap siding will cause moisture to become trapped. If interior moisture doesn’t have a way to vent it causes interior and exterior damage leading to paint failure.

·         Inspect your roof for damaged shingles. Shingles that are cracked, buckled, loose or missing granules need replaced.

·         Check flashing around chimneys, vents and skylights. This is something you may want to do from the ground or hire a professional.

·         Check decks, patios, porches, stairs, and railings for loose boards, screws or nails and deterioration. Decks need treated every 4-6 years, depending on how much exposure they get to sun and rain.

·         Check foundation walls, floors, concrete, and masonry for cracking, heaving, or deterioration. If a significant number of bricks are losing their mortar they need tuck pointing to prevent further damage.

3. Check furnace and air conditioner

·         Change the filters in your furnace and make sure your outside air-conditioner condenser is free from debris

·         This is the best time for a professional checkup on your heating and air conditioning system. As it gets hotter the HVAC contractor gets busier and harder to schedule.

·         Annual service keeps your heating/cooling system working at peak performance, saving money and resources.

4. Check smoke and carbon monoxide detectors

·         Remember to test detectors monthly, keep detectors clean and change batteries in the spring and fall.

5. Inspect garage doors

·         Visually inspect garage door springs, cables, rollers, pulleys and mounting hardware, such as hinges, for signs of wear or damage. If the torsion spring or extension springs need adjusted or repaired it might be best to call a professional.

·         Apply a small amount of spray lubricant to the door's hinges, rollers and tracks.

·         Check that the safety sensors and reversing mechanism are operating properly.

A seasonal home maintenance and inspection schedule can keep your home looking its best, while saving more expensive repairs that can happen when routine repair is neglected. 

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